Monthly Archives

August 2018

Expat Life

Visiting Római Part (Roman Beach) on the Danube for the First Time

August 12, 2018

My husband and I both love discovering new places – and we aren’t afraid to get lost. So yesterday, early on a rainy Saturday morning, we set off to visit Római Part. This riverside area is located on the Danube in Budapest’s 3rd District, Obuda. In fact, its pretty much the only area in Budapest you can eat and drink right beside the water. Your only other options are the two small (and tourist) filled bars at the foot of the Chain Bridge (Pontoon and Raqpart).

The name Római Part refers both to the riverside beach and the walking and cycling promenade that lies behind, stretching from the Barát-patak creek estuary in the north to the Aranhegyi-patak creek estuary in the south.

Római Part

Római Part is a riverside beach. It is located on an approximately 5 kilometers long stretch along the Danube in the city’s North-Western 3rd district.

But first, coffee…

Our first stop on Saturday morning was for coffee at our favourite place, Forest Cafe.  Forest Café is owned and wonderfully operated by Maxim Ferenczi. Its located at Papnövelde utca 2 – just across from the Good Spirit Whiskey Bar near Egyetem ter. Here, you will always find a friendly face and a great cup of coffee.  One of the best things for us, is that it is open early.  Strangely, we find so many coffee shops that are not open until 10am, where the Forest Cafe is always open by 7am on weekdays and 9am on Saturdays. They serve directly-traded Catalyst coffee, fresh baked goods and cakes. I highly recommend you visit him soon!

Maxim making our morning lattes.

A work of art. Almost too pretty to drink. Almost…

So lucky to have this just down the street from us. The perfect place to sit with a friend or with your book.

Getting to Római Part

The area is well connected to public transport. It is served by 3 local bus lines. It can also be reached by the suburban railway HÉV, via the stop Rómaifürdő. However, we opted to take the BKK (public transportation) ferry boat to Rómaifürdő  (line D12). We boarded the northbound 10:02am ferry at the Petofi Square stop near Elizabeth Bridge in the 5th district.

The Palace District and the Chain Bridge are a beautiful sites for anyone’s commute.

Taking the ferry, we were dropped off directly at the riverside promenade, rather than making the 20 minute walk from the HÉV station.  It also means you get to travel on the river surrounded by Budapest’s most beautiful landmarks. The entire ride took about one hour and fifteen minutes and cost us each 750 HUF (weekend and holiday price).

What to expect at Római Part

When you step off the boat, it feels like you are in cottage country – the big city no longer applies. Andrew and I felt like we were back in a village on Lake Balaton or up north in the Kawarthas of Ontario, Canada. Massive trees loom overhead keeping this riverside area shady and cool.  Everywhere you look you see families enjoying their weekend – and lots of happy dogs.

Along the promenade and riverside you will find at least 20 different bars, restaurants, and food trucks. Most of these venues open in spring and close only during wintertime, with some of them being open all year long.

Ordering our casual lunch of fried mushrooms and chips. However, the fried fish is definitely the most popular dish.

Két Rombusz

Our favourite discovery in this area was Ket Rombusz.  We were initially drawn in by the awesome latin music that played throughout this large spacious area. There are outdoor fire pits all around that anyone can use – FOR FREE.  They supply the wood, grill, stew pot and skewers. You supply your own food for the grill and buy drinks from their bar.  And if find yourself unprepared (like us), you can order cooked food from them directly.

The entrance with a sign that reads “outside drinks forbidden”. You can bring your own food – but not drinks.

I absolutely loved the vibe here.  It reminded me so much of summers I spent with my friends at the cottage. I could almost picture my sister and brother-in-law sitting across from us, while we drank and sang along to the music.

One of Két Rombusz’s most recognizable detail is the pair of double-decker buses that provide seating and the bar. This is place is an absolute treasure for those just wanting a chilled and relaxed summer afternoon. However, I suspect that on a holiday weekend you may need to book in advance.

Expats and Tourists in Római Part

Even thought I’m typically more of a champagne drinker than a beer drinker, I loved it here. And while its true you won’t find many expats or tourists here, that shouldn’t deter you from going.  In fact, that was one of the biggest draws for us. The locals were friendly and many vendors spoke English – at least enough to place your order.

Don’t miss this beautiful riverside promenade along one of the city’s last natural beaches. Enjoy the nature, sport venues, open air restaurants and bars. This is the perfect destination for families, couples, or individual travelers.

Next weekend is a long weekend here in Budapest, so if you don’t find us at the Gellert Baths, you’ll find us at Romai Part.

Oh, and it case you were wondering, we didn’t take Lucy with us this first time as we weren’t sure what to expect.  But she will definitely be joining us on the next adventure.

Expat Life

Experiencing the Incredible Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra

August 4, 2018
Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra

A couple of days ago, on a hot evening, we settled into to our chairs in the courtyard of  the Vajdahunyad Castle to see something amazing.  My Aunt, husband and myself were there to see the 100 member Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra. Andrew and I saw them perform once before on PBS television. We were exhilarated by the anticipation of seeing them perform live.

The Venue: Vajdahunyad Castle

Vajdahunyad Castle is a castle in City Park in the 14th District of Budapest. It was built in 1896 as part of the Millennial Exhibition which celebrated the 1,000 years of Hungary. Originally, it was made from paper and wood, but proved so popular, it was shortly rebuilt as a permanent stone structure.

The castle contains parts of buildings from various time periods and displays different architectural styles. The styles include Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque.

Vajdahunyad Castle

The castle contains a statue of Béla Lugosi – the Hungarian-American actor famous for portraying Count Dracula in the original 1931 film.

The concept of Vajdahunyad Castle Budapest was to blend the various architectural styles into one composite castle.

The oldest part of the Vajdahunyad Castle is the Romanesque style from the 11th – 13th century.

Vajdahunyad Castle Interior

The writer, Bram Stoker, pictured his Dracula living in the castle of Vajdahunyad.

The castle is surrounded by the water of the boating lake of the City Park (aka Varosliget). There are altogether four bridges leading to the Castle.

The beautiful building from where you can rent paddle boats in the summer or go skating in the winter.

The Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra

The world famous Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra was started 30 years ago and is a classical symphonic orchestra. Besides classical pieces of music – including those of Liszt, Bartók, Kodály, Hubay, Erkel, Brahms, Tchaikovsky, Sarasate, and Strauss – they also play traditional Hungarian Gypsy music, Hungarian melodies and folk songs alike.

As of March 18, 2018, the Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra is entitled to use the distinguished title of “Hungaricum”.

Hungaricum: a collective term indicating such a value, distinction and excellence which is regarded as a top achievement of Hungarians.

The Music

I can not even begin to describe how incredible these musicians are.  The passion they play with is absolutely infectious. Now to be fair, I did study classical music for most of my life – including the clarinet for over 12 years – so I naturally love this type of music.  I also grew up in a Hungarian household where this type of gypsy music was often played. I can’t help but be filled with happy memories of my childhood and Christmases at my grandparent’s house… However, even my husband thought the night was amazing. What he was especially surprised about, was the lack of music stands or the presence of a formal conductor.

http://www.100tagu.hu/en/budapest-gypsy-symphony-orchestra/

Traditional Gypsy style dictates that all music is played by memory.  In fact, I’m not entirely sure if all the Roma musicians can even read music. In the past, the music was passed down and learned by ear – not by reading sheets of music.  It is this that gives the music a particular style that is so unique.  There is much improvisation and featuring of soloists that bring a huge smile to every note. The sounds they are able to get from their instruments are nothing like you would hear in a traditional orchestra. I’m positive many a music teacher would faint from their technique!

Vajdahunyad Castle Summer Music Festival

This dazzling concert was the last in this year’s summer festival series. There were eight concerts this summer, but unfortunately, I only attended this one.  Next year, I hope to be able to see more. Tickets range from 3500-5500 HUF.  That’s less than $20 USD for these amazing performances in such a spectacular environment.

Just another fabulous reason to live (or visit) Budapest…

To see some of the Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra yourself, click here.